Experimental Farm Network 2023 catalog released

[Garrett Schantz]

Here's the link:

https://store.experimentalfarmnetwork.org/collections/new-for-2023


I'll post things that look interesting to me and why they look that way to me.

[Jeremy Weiss]

Might try the fuzzy bean landrace, even though I have a ton of fuzzy bean seed laid by (around here, they add it to the stuff they put on the edges of the railroad tracks and disturbed areas ON PURPOSE, to help keep down soil erosion.

Ironically, besides the traits they are looking for (bigger seeds and non-shattering pods) it might be a good idea to search for ones with reduced fuzzyness of seed (the fuzz can tickle your throat).

But there should be a good chance of pulling off what they want. Fuzzy bean is semi-domesticated anyway (most deposits early settlers took from were the result of Native American tribes tossing the seeds around the edges of their settlements for a quick emergency food source, so no one really knows what a true "wild" population would look like.

[Cathy A]

Thimbleberries from Michigan look very interesting, though a need for 90 days warm stratification followed by 90 days cold stratification would be difficult to achieve in 2023 for seeds bought in January or later.

I'd like to see more berry fruit options available that are comfortable in cold climates.

[reed]

Might try the fuzzy bean landrace, even though I have a ton of fuzzy bean seed laid by (around here, they add it to the stuff they put on the edges of the railroad tracks and disturbed areas ON PURPOSE, to help keep down soil erosion.

Ironically, besides the traits they are looking for (bigger seeds and non-shattering pods) it might be a good idea to search for ones with reduced fuzzyness of seed (the fuzz can tickle your throat).

But there should be a good chance of pulling off what they want. Fuzzy bean is semi-domesticated anyway (most deposits early settlers took from were the result of Native American tribes tossing the seeds around the edges of their settlements for a quick emergency food source, so no one really knows what a true "wild" population would look like.

I have a wild bean that resembles the description of that one except it is not fuzzy at all. I posted about it with a photo somewhere, sometime in the history of various forums and I think it was you Jeremy that identified it. Do you by chance remember that?

[Jeremy Weiss]

Not sure, my memory isn't that good. There IS such a thing as the smooth fuzzy bean, but it's seeds look VERY different from the others (plus, it's a lot smaller, and kind of rare).

[Garrett Schantz]

If I remember correctly the fuzz on the beans helps prevent mold and things on the beans.

Phaseolus species get mold while in their pods when certain conditions are met, other reasonings.

It's actually an interesting trait to me, as the genera are closely related.


The fuzzy bean sold by these guys last time was a wild population type rather than a mix. That one was different than the type Prariemoon sells.

Prairiemoon also sells Strophostyles leiosperma.

I believe there's a perennial fuzzy bean, some other related species as well.


A non fuzzy one wouldn't be surprising.


Phaseolus polystachios is another "wild bean" of interest with mildew / mold resistances and other fun traits.

[Garrett Schantz]

There is a Crambe species other than the usually sold one. (There's also a more cold tolerant selection, lilywhite is still on there as well.

I've grown Crambe tataria from cultivariable before, I mishandled them, started them too early.


This year EFN has Giant Colewort - Crambe cordifolia.

I also kept saying that I'd buy Good-King-Henry - another perennial green, also trying out the long lived chard mix.

I've germinated seed of a true perennial Beta species, also screwed that one up.

I'll be growing oyster leaf in this same area, probably.



As for other items, I'll probably try seeing if I can force Manuka to survive in zone 8 - it's listed for zone 9. I'll also try growing out "Tea" Camellia sinensis, "Tea oil camellia" Camellia oleifera, "New Jersey Tea" Ceanothus americanus.

A lot of these are simply used to make Tea. I'll also search for Bay leaf seeds or a plant somewhere too.


Sweetscent, a few other things like milkweed, snakeroot - hummingbirds are plentiful in this state. They seem like larger species than what we had in PA. And, while the ones back home would fight or spin around each other a bit - these ones actually fight each other.

They camp on feeders, even if they aren't being used they'll guard it. So, more flowering plants and things for them are in order I think. Got some species they'll enjoy like Yucca, some other stuff. Granted I'm not sure if they can fully pollinate Yucca.

I also already have a Kniphofia planted, salvias should be great too.



'Kagawa' Sunset Hibiscus - used for its greens. Korean Silkflower, is another variety from the same species that they also sell.

Ones from a lab in Japan that used the species for studies / also has larger leaf sizes apparently. I'll probably get both, allow them to cross and see if anything fun happens.

It's somewhat related Red Roselle, Zebrina, Marsh Mallow, Okra, Egyptian Spinach - all of which I'm also probably growing. Bees will probably love this grow out.


Also going to try the Lahague Grex Okra. I already have a bunch of others to try out in terms of Okra - grexes / species.


Going to try growing the olive variety,Lofthouse Sweet Pepper Grex, Prickly pears they offer, Sichuan pepper, Persimmon, Medlar. Also the Southern Magnolia Vine, and Eastern Prince Schisandra. Might try growing some elderberry species too.

A lot of these seem to be sourced from Sheffields.

[Diane Whitehead]

Wow!  How many acres do you have?

[reed]

Not sure, my memory isn't that good. There IS such a thing as the smooth fuzzy bean, but its seeds look VERY different from the others (plus, it's a lot smaller, and kind of rare).

I can't find the pictures of it, and I haven't even looked for the seeds yet. I remember though, that the seeds look like fat, black, shiny rice and the pods shatter if you look at them wrong. If you pick some still pretty green and put them in a paper bag for a couple days, you will hear them popping open. 

[Garrett Schantz]

Wow!  How many acres do you have?

I'm not doing a lot of things in large plantings, which saves up room - neighbors till up everyone's property too.

Most of the Tea plants / shrubs are pretty small.


I can probably dedicate one large area to this sort of stuff just because a portion of the property is in a very odd location with a slope that then leads to a bit of land before a forest.


I'm not separating a lot of things either.

Being in zone 8a now, also means that I can start a lot of things outside rather than inside in cells or pots.


Most of the Tea plants max out at around 20ft so they can work near the house. Elderberry and things can work being next to them as well.


It's mostly cramming stuff so it fits without pest issues.

Less lawn to mow I suppose.

Also using all the fallen branches that fall out of the forest (mostly oak, some sycamores and maples too - bit of birch, last property only had pine available as fallen wood) in preparation for some areas.


The oyster leaf, crambe species and some others can work under the base of some of the 20ft trees or just around them. A lot of those plants have nice flowers so they work as ornamentals with nice flowers - feed bees. Nice excuse to put them closer to the house.


Apparently Okra is popular in Mississippi, so I'm probably growing some Okra to just give away - different people may like different varieties or enjoy the whole grex idea.


Probably won't do a huge corn grow out due to everything else.

Most of the Solanums will be grown in the same cluster, Okra and its relatives the same - that sort of idea. Probably only doing a few pepper plants.

Okra and some other things can be grow pretty tightly packed to an extent.



Medlar and some other things are trees, so they'll be in their own area.



Honestly, the yard floods due to it being a swamp and Salvia lyrata covers everything. So, I'm just shrugging and seeing what all I can squeeze in and grow. There's probably plenty of water for trees and things.


Tomatoes will mostly have one plant per variety unless I have a few that my parents / others really like.


Haven't really gardened here before. So, melons - tomatoes and things that I'm planting will partially be me seeing what all does the best here, or seeing any issues - things I should select for.

[Jeremy Weiss]

As for other items, I'll probably try seeing if I can force Manuka to survive in zone 8 - it's listed for zone 9. I'll also try growing out "Tea" Camellia sinensis, "Tea oil camellia" Camellia oleifera, "New Jersey Tea" Ceanothus americanus.

A lot of these are simply used to make Tea. I'll also search for Bay leaf seeds or a plant somewhere too.

The main reason I'm not bothering with tea isn't that I don't think it would grow, I just don't think I could turn it into tea I'd want to drink. Making a top quality oolong is a VERY time consuming process. Even making black tea take a lot of work and timing knowledge. So I'd basically be stuck with plain green tea, and probably not very good quality at that (given I don't live on top of some high craggy mountains in China where I need trained monkeys to do the actual picking).

Same thing with the Tea oil. I LOVE camellia oil (the name I learned it under). It's the best stuff in the WORLD for pan frying (of all food oils, it has the highest smoke point, and so can be gotten the hottest without burning). But the rather meagre amount of actual seed I'd get and the time to process it wouldn't be worth it (even considering how much camellia oil GOES FOR now)

If you have some dry places, you might also want to look into Greek Mountain Tea (Sideris sp.). That tastes pretty good, and has a lot of antioxidants. I think Ricter's herbs sells seeds (I simply collect the seeds that are still occasionally stuck in the bunches I get from the market, so I have never had to actually buy any).

If you ever DO find a bay big enough to make fruit, let me know, I think there are some recipes that require the use of bay fruits (which I think are oily, like olives, given that Bay is a laurel). 

Green Roselle might be interesting as well. I've been told that is also used for a vegetable (though it would be interesting to use the calices in the same way the red ones are and see what kind of flavor sorrel has when it has no anthocyanidins in it.)

[UnicornEmily]

I'm interested in the beautyberry, thimbleberry, and manuka seeds.  But I checked manuka's growing zone, and it looks . . . let's say unlikely to survive my winters.  (Wry grin.)  And I already have beautyberry seeds, and I'd rather have thimbleberry seeds from a drier place than Washington state.  They apparently do grow wild in Utah, so I'd love to find some that are native.  Haven't found any yet.

I may pick them both up at some point when I have other things I want to order, though.  There are a lot of good things.

[Kadence Luneman]

I got some Sepp rye. I thought it sounded cool since I first heard of him. Won't hurt to try it. I got grain rye locally to use as a cover crop and to try hand threshing etc. I imagine it'll be shorter than the Sepp rye so it could be pollinated by it. We'll see.

I also got the Storage Onion wide cross mix f2. See how that does. I got 3 onion varieties to start my own so this could offer wider genetics for me starting.

I was sad to see the Nanticoke is still out of stock. Darn. I only have 7 seed from my packet because last year I got everything in late and it was too hot.

[William Schlegel]

https://store.experimentalfarmnetwork.org/collections/new-for-2023/products/wild-everglades-tomato

I enjoyed reading this little add for this strain of currant tomato.

[Garrett Schantz]

The main reason I'm not bothering with tea isn't that I don't think it would grow, I just don't think I could turn it into tea I'd want to drink. Making a top quality oolong is a VERY time consuming process. Even making black tea take a lot of work and timing knowledge. So I'd basically be stuck with plain green tea, and probably not very good quality at that (given I don't live on top of some high craggy mountains in China where I need trained monkeys to do the actual picking).

Same thing with the Tea oil. I LOVE camellia oil (the name I learned it under). It's the best stuff in the WORLD for pan frying (of all food oils, it has the highest smoke point, and so can be gotten the hottest without burning). But the rather meagre amount of actual seed I'd get and the time to process it wouldn't be worth it (even considering how much camellia oil GOES FOR now)

If you have some dry places, you might also want to look into Greek Mountain Tea (Sideris sp.). That tastes pretty good, and has a lot of antioxidants. I think Ricter's herbs sells seeds (I simply collect the seeds that are still occasionally stuck in the bunches I get from the market, so I have never had to actually buy any).

If you ever DO find a bay big enough to make fruit, let me know, I think there are some recipes that require the use of bay fruits (which I think are oily, like olives, given that Bay is a laurel). 

Green Roselle might be interesting as well. I've been told that is also used for a vegetable (though it would be interesting to use the calices in the same way the red ones are and see what kind of flavor sorrel has when it has no anthocyanidins in it.)

Yeah, with the plants I'm looking at for tea usages or other things - some of them have edible greens and whatnot. Both Camellia species would make nice ornamentals as a bonus, I think. The one used for oil also has a usage with its leaves that makes some sort of oil for use on skin.

That one also has types with pink flowers, seems to generally have longer / larger flower petals than the other species, a bit more cold hardier to maybe zone 6.

I'd be interested in crossing the species, with the help of bees probably.

I'll look into some of the other tea plants that you mentioned. I've been playing around with experimental tea batches. Granted I'm not just tossing in random stuff. Rather not make a unhealthy dose of something.