Ipomoea batatas - breeding of Sweet Potato - Camote - New Zealand

Started by Richard Watson, 2018-10-11, 11:20:51 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Richard Watson

Changeable climate manly during winter & spring - 500mm average yearly rainfall. 23 years of soil improvements plus sub soil top soil reversal means my garden beds are about half metre deep. Below that is 100's of metres of alluvial shingle

reed

Looks like your on your way. From what I've seen most very early flowers don't set seed. I think it might be because there aren't enough overall and on different plants to catch the attention of the bees and get good pollination going.

Not to worry though, if they have a few now they should have a whole bunch later and then you'll see the capsules forming.  If you do see capsules from the first few flowers it might indicate self-pollination. 

Chris Morrison

Interesting. The flower buds on my 2 earliest seed grown plants, are quite different. The purple one, which I suspect id native EFR x BBCuzzie, has a long flower stem , perhaps 30mm. I recall BBCuzzie having very short, chunky flower stems, perhaps 10mm?. The Green one has shorter, perhaps 15mm, quite similar to its prolific parent, G1?

reed

Ah, don't reckon I ever paid much attention to that, I'll make a note to check mine when it quits raining. That first one though looks like it might have several flowers on that stem and the second one maybe just one or two. There are technical terms for both the primary stem and the individual stem of each flower but I don't recall what those terms are right now.

Seems like generally that those with just one or two flowers per, tend to have them at pretty much every single leaf joint and the leaf joints are farther apart. They also seem to have higher percentage with a full four seeds per capsule and again generally, have longer vines. I think overall they make less seeds but maybe higher % of what I think of as quality seeds.

I've defined quality seed as perfectly shaped and dark black but I might have to rethink that cause I now know that ones I used to think of second rate sprout just fine.

Chris Morrison

Yes is clear to see, even at 6weeks of age, what will be bushy (the purple ones in the pic) vs runners (the green one). Now the green one native EFR x G1 has longer inter-nodes, whilst the bushy type, obviously much shorter.  The Green runner, has a flower stem every node, so will be a prolific bloomer. The earliest purple bloomer has 1 flower stem, now 60mm long, the other is barren.

Richard Watson

Once the warmth of summer kicks in you are going to have plenty of flowering going on.
Changeable climate manly during winter & spring - 500mm average yearly rainfall. 23 years of soil improvements plus sub soil top soil reversal means my garden beds are about half metre deep. Below that is 100's of metres of alluvial shingle

Richard Watson

Changeable climate manly during winter & spring - 500mm average yearly rainfall. 23 years of soil improvements plus sub soil top soil reversal means my garden beds are about half metre deep. Below that is 100's of metres of alluvial shingle

Richard Watson

Changeable climate manly during winter & spring - 500mm average yearly rainfall. 23 years of soil improvements plus sub soil top soil reversal means my garden beds are about half metre deep. Below that is 100's of metres of alluvial shingle

Chris Morrison

Hopefully that is a Green Runner :-)
I had 1 more pop up y/day, so total now 22. Will keep watching. Mark reckoned can take up to 2 months, well that is in a week.
Need to get the biggest few into 5gal fabric pots and outside, a job for next week

reed

It can take even longer than two months. I've found volunteers in spots where I grew them two or three years ago so they can lay in the dirt a long time before sprouting.

I used to think low germination rate was because a lot of seeds were not viable but now I think the extremely hard seed coat is what causes them to be so unpredictable in sprouting. If a seed looks good, no mold, not shrunken up or soft, it is good. It just might not be in the mood to sprout right when I want it to. I guess that's why some of the university guys soften them up with sulfuric acid before planting.

I've just been selecting for those that sprout easier on their own and it's working but maybe I shouldn't go too overboard on that. The hard seed coat might also be why they stay good for a very long time in storage and I don't want to completely lose that.


Richard Watson

We have a native tree call Kowkai https://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-plants/kowhai/ it has a really hard shell so I use the point of a steak knife to chip it, I wonder if that would work also for these
Changeable climate manly during winter & spring - 500mm average yearly rainfall. 23 years of soil improvements plus sub soil top soil reversal means my garden beds are about half metre deep. Below that is 100's of metres of alluvial shingle

Chris Morrison

Well that explains why I dig around and find hard seed just 'sitting there'. Not sure what to do with the 200 odd unsprouted seeds now. Maybe just co-mingle in on 5gal pot and keep a rough eye on them, over summer?

Steve1

Quote from: Chris Morrison on 2020-10-17, 03:05:26 PM
Well that explains why I dig around and find hard seed just 'sitting there'. Not sure what to do with the 200 odd unsprouted seeds now. Maybe just co-mingle in on 5gal pot and keep a rough eye on them, over summer?

If they have a hard seed coat and that is impeeding germination chipping should work. I've done 100 or so wild species peas in a about 20 min using a nail clipper. Just work out where the germ is and chip the other side, you'll get your eye in and just take the coat after a bit of a warm up. Possibly easier on peas as they are round... Then, what will you do with 200 more of them??

reed

I've read lots of places that nicking the seed works. I had I guess 40% maybe a little more germinate in the direct planted spot this year. Several just got left where they were cause I didn't have pots or room for them and were too overcrowded and not watered to make much roots but several made a few seeds. I imagine more of them will sprout next year.

I think I'll just stick with selecting for those that sprout a little easier cause I think turning them into a direct planted annual is even better than having to do it inside or in cold frames. Maybe it will just always be that if I want 25 plants I'll need to plant 50 seeds.

I would just write off the unsprouted ones. More will probably sprout even if you just discard them on the ground but if they don't do it while there is still at least 100 days left to the season they won't have time to account to much. There are some volunteers in my garden right now that sprouted in the last month. 

Richard Watson


Well Ive got heaps of seed sitting in the pots doing nothing, i might just stick the pots outside and see what happens over summer 
Changeable climate manly during winter & spring - 500mm average yearly rainfall. 23 years of soil improvements plus sub soil top soil reversal means my garden beds are about half metre deep. Below that is 100's of metres of alluvial shingle