Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Legumes / Re: Peas 2021
« Last post by Andrew Barney on Today at 06:25:59 AM »
I'll see if i can post some photos despite them not being high quality.

But here is a preliminary pea report for pea patch 1. pea patch 2 has suffered some drought and some stunted growth so I'm not sure i can evaluate any from patch 2 for eating qualities.

Taste Test Winner 2021: "Large Podded" which consists mostly of 'Green Beauty' (also has 'Carouby de Maussane' & 'Bijou'). Winner another year in a row. Large succulent pods that are still tasty when the seeds start to get large. If you have limited space this is the one to grow.

Next Best" 'Opal Beauty' from Peace Seedlings: Pretty Good. Very tasty large yellow peas with edible pods. I will grow this one again. Best yellow podded pea available anywhere.

'Ruby Beauty': OK flavor. not amazing not terrible. Red pods are decently colored though red pods are still mostly just to grow something different. Sadly I suspect red podded peas will not get better than this. If you want a red podded pea get this one,

My red podded breeding line 'Colorado Red Improved' ('Colorado Red' x Midnight Snow): Ok flavor. Not amazing, but improved greatly. Edible. Color is not stabilized yet due to non-homozygous purple genes in Midnight Snow.

'Honeysnap II': Dwarf plants. Not bad. Will grow this one again. Best yellow snap pea I've tasted or grown. Pods produce in clumps of 2-3 each. very productive. Taste like a snap pea. Has darker yellow pods than other yellow podded peas. Interesting. Worth breeding with.

'Purple Beauty': Not bad flavor. Good purple color. Not bad flavor for a purple podded pea. Worth growing. Not as good as green beauty, but a nice companion to green beauty.

'Amethyst Beauty': Meh. flavor not that good. Color not that good. not worth growing. Purple Beauty is better.

Royal Snap II: Meh. True snap pods as compared to Sugar Magnolia's half-snap pods. Flavor is not that great, but maybe edible. Might be good for breeding. Dwarf. Good dark purple pods.

Royal Snow: Meh. Good dark purple pods. Flavor about the same as Royal Snap II. Worth growing? Maybe, maybe not. dwarf.

F2 hybrid 'Alaska' x P. elatius: Edible shelling pea. Not amazing, but had some pods with red spots that turn to black spots when drying down. Medium height.
Plant Breeding / Re: Bramble(Rubus) Species / Hybrids
« Last post by Garrett Schantz on Today at 12:36:23 AM »
The orange types are becoming a sort of purpleish color. Slightly different from the normal types, haven't tasted them yet though.

Ordered some Rubus seed packets from Sheffields.

Rubus probus - Queensland Raspberry - 193 seeds per packet

Doesn't require cold stratification, in the Idaeobatus clade - not frost hardy. I want to hybridize this with other Idaeobatus species, I will most likely grow these indoors until they flower / fruit.
I want species in this clade from all different countries, continents. There are local types of diseases found in these different countries / regions. And these diverse species could have resistances that the others don't have. Hoping to solve issues before they arise. Growing from seed helps prevent disease as well.

Rubus odoratus - Purple-flowering Raspberry - 177 seeds per packet (Collected in New York, state right next to mine - should perform well enough)

Probably needs some form of stratification. In the Anoplobatus clade. Reportedly a diploid, meaning it couldwork out well enough with the Idaeobatus clade diploids. (

Rubus spectabilis - Salmon Berry - 46 seeds per packet

Also in the Idaeobatus clade, seems to have different flowers than the norm for this clade - unsure of how closely related it is to the others as well. Probably requires stratification. Unsure of how well this species will perform here, the collection locale was Idaho - shouldn't mind being dry for certain periods of time.

I might try to start some of these this year, warm stratify a few, try a few different things with them. I am probably getting some Idaeobatus hybrids next year from my current plants in that clade. Would rather not have these fellows drag behind too much. I would try to plant these "naturally" but Rubus species can sometimes take 2 years to germinate, depending on how mild a winter is. I would also need to keep the areas free of woodland weeds without accidentally pulling seeds out of the soil with them.

Rubus probus should be easy to work with in terms of germination, also with the fact that I can't grow many plants to begin with them being frost intolerant - I can have a bunch of failures without an issue. The fruit shape / size also seems fun. I hope that it is able to hybridize with at least one of the Idaeobatus species. I can't find any mentions of hybrids with this species.

Most of the species that I have bloom in the spring, some plants can continue flowering a bit into the summer.

Some links that were posted on another forum.
Cucurbits / Re: Tetsukabuto croce
« Last post by Adrian on Yesterday at 11:55:26 AM »
Heavy genetic?
Tomatoes / Re: Breeding with wild tomato species
« Last post by William S. on 2021-06-21, 11:05:30 PM »
My cheesemanii and galapagense are still plugging away. Older leaves on the galapagense have yellowed since moving outside. Still looks ok though. Hope it sets fruit again this year.

LA2329 hairy and arthropod resistant habrochaites is looking ok as are the promiscuous project and exserted stigma types planted adjacent.

Clump of Solanum arcanum looks good. Speaking of which hmm potential cold tolerance source in the focal accession of this article.

Most of the promiscuous project plants fared well in the frost. Due mainly to their privileged portion of the garden no doubt. However one or so individuals fared relatively poorly but survived. Microenvironment or genetics? Do tomatoes that are unscathed by frost or those that resprout from it have the more interesting epigenetics? Not to mention regular genetics!
Tomatoes / Re: Breeding with wild tomato species
« Last post by Garrett Schantz on 2021-06-21, 05:59:35 PM »
The Azygote Chilense type seems to have died. The others are fine.

Adding an image of an outside look of the pot with probable Chilense seedlings in it. Quite cramped, there are probably pimpinellifolium types in there, could have penneli or other things mixed in too. I sort of gave up on them germinating after a few months, repurposed - forgot about it after awhile... The large plant with flowers on it is a peruvianum plant from J&L Gardens that I stuck in there months because I had too many plants in a single cell.

I should probably thin out the pot...

Second image is the "fuzzy habrochaites". Hopefully it has nice flowers, it has been under a Neandermato plant for a few weeks now, seems happy there. There are two seedlings, so if the Neandermato can't donate pollen - hopefully the two plants can pollinate each other.

Last image is the fast peruvianum again. Lot of growth on the base, might cut off the top which was sort of "leggy".

Once the hairy habrochaites flowers, I will attempt to cross it with a few things. Others on here have a different hairy habrochaites accession, hopefully at least one of these types are compatible with Neandermato.
Plant Breeding / Re: Bramble(Rubus) Species / Hybrids
« Last post by Garrett Schantz on 2021-06-21, 05:45:23 PM »
I went out and picked a few R. occidentalis berries today (Like 3 berries).

I picked the ones that were soft, even if they weren't a fully developed color. Birds swarm the fruits the moment they are fully ripened.

Going to include an image of some unripe types, they are quite ornamental at this stage, red berries much like red raspberries - except they are still hard at this stage.

The large stemmed R. occidentalis that I moved into the experimental spot has orange colored fruit so far, usually these go from green to red within a day - no orange involved. I'm unsure if these types will ultimately be a different color, which would confirm these as a hybrid. Or as an even more unusual variant.

If I do have an orange / different colored variant, I will probably attempt to hybridize it with the Yellow occidentalis, focusing on keeping the red / white canes along with the large upright growth. R. occidentalis is a sexual plant, attempting to isolate / clone the plant would be against my general goals of these projects, I want these to mostly propagate sexually.
Plant Breeding / Re: Mild purple radishes
« Last post by Garrett Schantz on 2021-06-21, 05:34:47 PM »
Rattails are plump-ish. They seem to bolt faster than regular radishes - normally would be an advantage since they are grown for pods. Would be an issue if you want a root crop out of it.

I bought some Singara Rat's tail - along with Experimental Farm Network's Purple Podded Rattail. EFN's had a lower germination, but the pods are much longer and purple colored.

The flowers appeared to be larger than normal types.
Plant Breeding / Re: Mild purple radishes
« Last post by reed on 2021-06-21, 08:18:35 AM »
reed, yes I've eaten radish pods before, but i quite like the watery-ness of a root versus a pod. EFN now carries a long purple podded radish variety bred entirely for the pods to be like string beans.
The pods on mine are quite juicy, great in salads but in years past I culled out some that got tough or stringy. Those big roots harvested in late fall or early winter are very juicy.  I don't remember those that started the initial landrace except that they were all pretty commonly available ones like cherry bell and French breakfast and a bunch of others.

Have never bothered to add in any specifically for pods like rattail, maybe I should do that. I like mine pretty good the way they are though, the pods are mostly only an inch or two long  but plump and crunchy.
Plant Breeding / Re: Mild purple radishes
« Last post by Andrew Barney on 2021-06-21, 07:56:36 AM »
Anyway I'll be interested in anything mild non-bolting and purple or not, if you develop it.
BTW, any take on resistance to flea beetle in radish?  The pest is seriously attracted to radish leaf here.

We'll I'll let you know if i'm able to develop anything that is mild and slow bolting here in my climate. There will be no guarantee that once selected for they will do well in others climates, but i figure they might do well for anyone else in cooler conditions than mine. This has been a very hot year already. My radishes this year are in a raised bed in partial shade. The raised bed soil may have too much woody fibers in it, thus sucking up the nitrogen. If that is the case they may be wanting to go to seed because of lack of nitrogen. They could behave differently in more natural soil. But i figure if i can select for them in these conditions they should do even better in better soil.

I'll keep an eye on flea beetle leaf resistance. I've had years where radish, beets, and turnip leaves were all eaten up (but perhaps others were fine?). In past years i never thought to pull out the affected ones and leave the others alone. But we do have a grasshopper problem here so it may be them instead of the beetles.

We do have a wild radish-type weed here that could cause problems like queens anne lace in carrots. I'm not exactly sure what they really are. They have purple flowers like a radish flower, they don't have large roots, and the seed pods are tiny but spicy like a radish. I assume they must be some sort of feral domestic radish that lost all domestic traits left over from former farmland from decades ago.

reed, yes I've eaten radish pods before, but i quite like the watery-ness of a root versus a pod. EFN now carries a long purple podded radish variety bred entirely for the pods to be like string beans.
Plant Breeding / Re: Mild purple radishes
« Last post by reed on 2021-06-21, 07:40:22 AM »
I have a pretty diverse radish landrace going in my garden. It pretty much takes care of itself reseeding when and where it wants. I only save seeds as a backup in case something wiped it out one year but so far it is doing fine on it's own. I don't eat a lot of radish roots except when a patch needs thinned. I grow it largely for ground cover and tillage. Instead of the overall population turning into something with stringy or tough roots as I've read will happen, I've found the opposite, especially with those that come up in summer or fall.

Along with the tillage aspect I've discovered that the seed pods are a much better food source that the roots. A single plant produces them in great abundance. I also like the more mild flavored ones so what I do is cull out any whose pods are very hot. Of course by then their pollen as intermingled with the others but seeds from the very hot ones are not part of the next generation.

Below is an example of what they have turned into when allowed to just do their own thing and harvested before the first hard freeze. All of them harvested at this time seem to be quite mild. *I don't mind the bolting one little bit, I count on it! Things like pictured below is an unexpected bonus.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10