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Plant Breeding / Re: Rebsie's Red-Podded Peas
« Last post by Raymondo on Today at 02:52:51 PM »
Excellent. Congrats on the breakthrough Rebsie.
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Seed Saving / Re: Drought resistant Australian varieties
« Last post by Woody Gardener on Today at 02:52:13 PM »
Thanks Raymondo!

Yes, we have a lot of heat and drought resistant SW US and Mexican varieties. Even a lot of dent corn bred by eastern farmers in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Plenty of rain usually but often late July and August get very hot and dry.

I found that a wild Mexican tomato, Matt's Wild Cherry, is heat and drought resistant. It's a 5/8 inch red tomato. I wonder if it's related to or the same as Matt's Folly?
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Seed Saving / Re: Drought resistant Australian varieties
« Last post by Raymondo on Today at 02:27:02 PM »
I live in northern NSW where we are experiencing the worst drought since 1904. Last season I grew black eyed peas and mung beans as a green manure crop among the corn. The corn died in the dry but these two legumes did well. I left them to dry down to at least have some sort of harvest. I got plenty from both. The original seeds were from bulk packets I bought in a whole foods store so nothing special. I think cowpeas are probably well adapted to dry but I was surprised to find that mung beans handled it so well.
Other things that did well, or at least gave me something to eat last season were Kakai pepita squash, a dry bean called Ilanz and a tomato called Matts Folly. All were heavily mulched with hay.
I’d imagine that Americans would have access to plenty of dry adapted crops from the peoples of the south western states like Arizona and New Mexico and the adjoining region in Mexico.
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Plant Breeding / Re: Breeding a perennial dryland squash
« Last post by Gilbert Fritz on Today at 02:20:58 PM »
Well, not much progress to report on this (or any of my other projects either.) It was a bad year, and a lot of my stuff didn't even get planted. I did plant out the wild squashes; C ficifolia, C. foetidissima (from last year) C. pedatifolia and C. ×scabridifolia. The last two stayed very small, though vigorous and bushy looking. No flowers. The ficifolia flowered, but I don't think it will have time to ripen fruit. The foetidissima is larger than last year, but still no flowers. I'll try to overwinter the perennials and try again next year.
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William: Yikes. Too much moderator power, too tired this week. Sorry that I edited your post rather than making my own... Fortunately I was able to undo the boo-boo.
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I grew about 20 plants of Fairy Hollow. Nothing resembling the parent has showed up yet. Season this year was super short.  Likely to get frost by morning, so boo hoo.

I received seed a couple days ago which is exerted/SI-acting 50% wild crossed with each other. Carefully selected, and manually cross-pollinated. Looking forward to growing that out next year.

I think that it's time for me to transition from trying to increase the number of s-alleles in the population to crossing elite X elite. One of the [Big Hill X 50% wild] plants (out of 250) produced 12 ounce fruits. Yay!!!! That's as elite as it gets. They were pollinated by the general population, so they are likely to segregate away from giant fruit next growing season.

The mix of small/larger seeds seems promising. Segregation for seed size is a Xenia effect that is observable in tomato seeds.

William, did you grow pure S pennellii? If yes, how did it do for you?

As a step towards a completely self-incompatible population, I planted single isolated S habrochaites plants in three fields and allowed bee-pollination with 25% or 50% wildlings. So the seeds collected from S habrochaites should be 100% self-incompatible. Then it's just a matter of growing out enough of them to find large tasty fruits. I included a 25% wild descendant of S pennellii, and of S habrochaites in the plantings, so there should be some 3 species hybrids showing up.

I only grew one purely domestic tomato plant this year. I'm leaning towards focusing solely on the self-incompatible interspecies-hybrid population next year, and not growing pure domestics, nor pure wilds. Time to start focusing on elite self-incompatible.

I'm having a tomato tasting party tomorrow to taste the 25% wildlings. Cracking has been pretty common in the 25% wild population.

First photo is 75% domestic. 25% wild. They are a full-sibling group. Each basket is the fruit from one sibling, except the two mixed baskets which were gathered from the ground, or that got missed in initial harvest.

Second photo is of fruits collected from the backcross to S habrochaites, and the 3 species hybrids. (All seeds in the fruits on the left are expected to be 3 species hybrids.

Third photo is of the fruits that are headed to the tasting party. All wildlings of one sort or another. (Notice the 12 ounce green fruit? It's a 25% wildling. Mother acted self-incompatible, and had exerted stigma.)
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Seed Saving / Re: Planting nectarine pits
« Last post by Lauren on Yesterday at 08:06:54 AM »
I have planted them mostly in the ground previously, but this year the big pots along the fence (destined to hold some of these nectarine trees) are empty so I decided to plant them in place. They'll be in the weather and with the same soil so should have the same germination success as they would have had in the ground. My main concern is whether the insects will find the shelled kernels before the cold hits.
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Seed Saving / Re: Planting nectarine pits
« Last post by Walk on Yesterday at 06:41:21 AM »
My experience has only been with Siberian peaches and apricots. We've always had the best success with planting the pits right away, directly into a nursery bed in the garden (in SE Minnesota). One year we carefully planted pits in pots, ran out of pots so put some in trays, ran out of trays and dumped the rest next to the compost heap. The pots/trays were put in the root cellar over the winter. Only 1 pit sprouted from the pots/trays, but there was a whole clump of sprouts from the compost. David Cavagnaro from Seed Savers (in NE Iowa) told me that he had the same experience, and that has been the way we've done it ever since.
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Thanks Ferdzy, that's what I'm thinking too. They're so pretty right now. I'll have to take a few pictures before I commence to chopping on them. I'll remove the buds that haven't opened yet and probably some of the most recently pollinated ones too.

Sorry yours are not cooperating. I guess the one that is blooming isn't setting seed by itself? I know self incompatibility is the norm but also know there are exceptions to that rule.

 
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Plant Breeding / Re: TPS 2019
« Last post by Doro on Yesterday at 02:27:11 AM »
I had some aerial tubers here and there on most varieties. For me they are mainly caused by slugs, they appear when the stems are eaten. Lots of slugs this year due to all the rain... just good I didn't grow much salad lol

We are getting the first ground frosts now and first air frost in the morning is close. Most mornings are around 2C now. Potato season is officially over. I'm harvesting and screening the TPS seedlings now.

The Unknown Early TPS were rubbish, they were badly affected by the cold and wet start of the season and I discarded all of them. No keepers.

The Linda TPS were indeed pollinated by something blue. They were ok, but nothing too special. I'll keep two fluffy starchy ones to see how they are doing next year, but they are probably no long term keepers.

The Heiderot F2 TPS were cool because of very even colour distribution through the potato flesh. They almost stayed the same colour when cooked. I'm keeping 2 with good colour that seem to be starchy but still firm.

The pictures have the raw potatoes on top and the cooked result below. Linda TPS: yellow fleshed long and the blueish one, Heiderot F2: purple and blue round ones.
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The five you see above are the survivors and one Kumara from Chris Morrison that flowered for him. Yes it is single layer glass and the way I see it is if it was  radiant cooling killing some of the plants its sorted out the men from the boys
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