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Messages - spacecase0

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1
I dont understand how this works, can you explain please.
so what I said in reply #6 of this thread was not clear enough...

let me try to do better
silks from the lower part of the cob show up before the ones from the upper part of the cob,
so, you are selecting for sooner or later if you save the seeds from the ends of the cobs

2
Tomatoes / Re: Reisetomate / "Traveler tomato" project
« on: 2020-07-01, 12:59:41 AM »
when I grew it,
most of them ripened at the same time
maybe 30% were uneven
growing it this year as well, but like last time, growing it with other tomatoes,
guess I should bag the flowers to see to if I can get a pure ripening version

3
Plant Breeding / Re: Miner's Lettuce
« on: 2020-06-20, 06:17:42 PM »
Very cool. Here on the northern edge of the southeastern US bioregion, I have a few patches of self-sowing Claytonia perfoliata. Seems to do just fine here in our climate. Do you have any advice for seed storage? Can they be dried and retain viability?
they sit around on my sidewalk dry all summer and still germinate.
no rain for many months all summer here and everything dries out,
so am am very sure they can dry out and remain viable.

4
Community & Forum Building / Re: Koppen climate subgroups?
« on: 2020-06-03, 10:56:13 AM »
I am pretty much in the middle of california,
people say that I have a Mediterranean climate,
but I am also at some elevation, so I get cool nights, something that the valley below me does not get.
lots of people in the hills of the american south west have the same issue I do.
I get very dry all summer, but need plants to grow in spring and fall when it is wet and cold.
have been working on a few seeds for my area. but I am not sure how to classify what my climate is without a short description.

here is an example of what I have done.
took me 7 years to do it, but I now have a zucchini that grows from 32F to 115F, up to 40F day to night changes, wet or dry weather.
it can take anything I have ever seen, and they are large plants that are very productive. and produce about a month earlier than when I first started growing them here.
I wonder what they would do if they got sent to other climates.

anyway, I will help your project if I can

5
I am intrigued: Is it the smaller the seed, the longer to maturity? Because a big seed has a head-start?
it has to do with when it is grows and is pollinated.
the ones at the base are first, so they tend to grow shorter season like they were.
some people say that they also have stronger roots, but I have never tested that.
opposite for the ones at the top of the cob.

so I mark my cobs as to when they silk, then get seeds from the appropriate place to bring my corn back to silking (and tasseling on each plant when it silks) all at the same time.
right now they are about 3 weeks apart for all of it, so it takes more water than it needs to and does not give me a larger harvest of the longer season either.
fixing a corn variety can take a few years.

my suggestion to anyone trying to make a good corn variety with limited space,
especially if you someday plan on living off of it when you get more room someday,
grow 2 types that are very similar but from different sources.
then cross them when you get the additional space.
you will not run into inbreeding depression that way.

I almost lost a variety because I only started with 36 plants,
I grew at least 200 plants and saved seeds from all of them in years after.
took 4 years to fail (or was it 5 ?), but it happened.

6
closer spacing gets you more plants, and if you are not looking for production, it is likely ok as long as you get them enough water.

the idea of growing seeds 2 years from your original seeds and them mix the first 2 years for year 3 works

also remember to get seeds from each cob for replanting, don't just mix them all together, some cobs might not get replanted that way.
remember that seeds collected from the bottom of the cob will give you shorter season corn, middle of the cob will not change the growing time of the corn, and top of the cob will give you longer season corn.

also, choose seeds that look different if you have a really low population, it will help with the required diversity.


7
Cucurbits / Re: Dry garden zucchini
« on: 2020-05-11, 12:50:27 AM »
I have been saving seeds from plants for a long time,
first thing that I think with your question is that ever notice french seeds VS native american seeds ?
anything out of france is going to fail where I live, they are super fragile plants.
most native american seeds do well where I live,
not that surprising given I live in a harsh place in the USA
but it also gets me looking a bit closer.
people in france are usually very good farmers.
native americans let plants live or die, not good farmers, but likely better plant breeders.
if you coddle your plants, and save the seeds, you plants need that environment you gave them.
so,
looking at this, I ask, what are you really looking for ?

8
Cucurbits / Re: Drying squash
« on: 2020-05-08, 09:46:26 PM »
Buffalo Bird Woman was my motivation
I followed instructions.

and as far as production,
one zucchini plant gives me a fruit about every 1.5 days.
2 plants per person tends to overload someone by fall.
I planted 10 plants per person this year so that I will have something to dry this year,
and that also insures that I will have enough seeds for next year,

9
Cucurbits / Re: Drying squash
« on: 2020-04-30, 08:55:55 AM »
I dry zucchini,
when dried and then added to a soup, the flavor is just what I started with when fresh.

per plant production where I live (middle of california) is about one zucchini every one to 2 days
I have been breeding for larger plants the last 7 years and now, so my production is better than it use to be.
I plant 2 plants a person and generally that gives zucchini for breakfast every day.
this year I planted 10 plants a person so there should be extra to dry this year.

10
Plant Breeding / Re: Miner's Lettuce
« on: 2020-04-26, 08:57:55 PM »
did I ever send you seeds ?
I remember collecting them for you, but no memory of sending them.

11
Cucurbits / Re: Looking for seeds for a "cob melon"
« on: 2020-04-26, 08:46:58 PM »
I bought seeds for that years ago when it was still being shipped to the USA
could not get them to germinate...
never did try again.

still not sure if they were irradiated by the mail service or what happened

12
normally I grow mostly for seeds.
this year I am going to try to grow all my own food. if I can avoid going to the grocery store, then I will be happy.
some of my breeding projects may get put on hold.
going to focus on potatoes, onions, sweet corn, and zucchini.

13
Plant Breeding / Re: Climate Change Breeding
« on: 2020-02-22, 07:40:34 PM »
I think evolutionary plant breeding is still possible with machine harvesting: First you walk through to get the best cobs for seed, then you thresh by machine.
You could do a two step process: sow the mix of the best seeds in one hectare. Detassel poor looking ones, cull completely if they look bad. Harvest the seeds of the very best as foundation in one hectare for next year, then thresh the rest for seed in the other fields. Repeat and repeat. Preferably do this process in your worst, dryest, field.
I have seen university studies show that machine harvesting breeds plants that favor the harvesting being done. (sorry no links as I read this before the internet)
human or otherwise is about the same to the plants.
the large gains in harvest are there in about year 3, by 5 it is close to maximum, by year 7 you will likely see nothing better.
this was done on grains like wheat and barley

14
Seed Saving / Re: Flour moths and seed storage
« on: 2020-02-18, 08:05:23 PM »
even in glass jars, the diatomaceous earth is a good idea, the moths can't spread even inside a jar if they die trying to get to the next seed
I vacuum my jars, so they can't breath in the first place.
but if I had paper envelope only, diatomaceous earth would by my first try

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